Populum? or ad Captandum Vulgus?*
Digital Rebel body design is simple, though not without
ergonomic and performance issues. For
example, on the front, the red-eye reduction light is essentially
useless--your right hand position and lens will pretty
much block that light from having a real impact.
top is clean and uncluttered.
back is where all the action is, and for the most part
the controls are logical and well laid out, even though
I don't think they're as effectively used as they could
be. All in all, very few buttons and knobs, yet they
allow you decent control over the camera.
this? A review of a Canon product on Thom's Nikon site? Has Thom
gone mad? Is the apocalypse near? Did Canon bribe Thom?
of the above, actually. Two of the most common emails I get these
days are "Should I buy the Digital Rebel or the D70?" and "Should
I switch to Canon?" The first I'll try to directly answer
in this review. The second is a larger, more complex question,
but is also to some sense addressed by this review. (For those
who need help reading between the lines: for everything that
Nikon gets wrong or doesn't produce, Canon gets something different
wrong. As I get time to elaborate on that, I'll do so elsewhere.
To date, neither company has produced the perfect camera, though
both keep leapfrogging each other while trying. Patience, grasshopper,
patience.) Without further ado:
traditional Canon fashion, their entry-level DSLR is a light,
plastic-bodied, mostly automatic camera. If you're looking
for the perfect snapshot DSLR and don't like fiddling with controls
or encounter special situations, the Digital Rebel very well
may be all the camera you need. With a 6-megapixel sensor,
quality 8x10" print is easily produced on most inkjets, and even
a decent 13x19" print on a something like the Epson 2200
is well within reach with just a bit of resizing.
a few months, the Digital Rebel was alone in the under US$1000
DSLR world, but it's been recently joined by the Nikon D70, so
it probably is a good idea to get some of the key differences
highlighted right up front (pink is better; if both are purple
I judge the differences to be minimal):
autofocus sensors controlled by single button
autofocus sensors controlled by direction pad
3072x2048, 1.6x effective view
1.5x effective view
(36 zone), partial (9%), and centerweight metering
(1005 cell CCD), spot (1%), centerweight (adjustable) metering
and wired remote control only (optional)
remote control only
- 1/4000 shutter, 1/200 flash sync
- 1/8000 shutter, 1/500 flash sync
100 to 1600 in single stop steps
200 to 1600 in 1/3 stop steps, Auto
flash, no flash compensation, high speed sync support
flash, flash exposure compensation, multiple wireless support,
fps, 4 shot buffer
fps, 20 shot buffer, very fast write
demand grid lines
cameras have: Bracketing, built-in flash, a variety of JPEG recording
sizes and qualities, the regular exposure modes plus seven scene
modes, a hot shoe, a menu and playback system that uses the color
LCD, and a host of other features. Effectively, they are very
cameras in the gross specifications, though I think they are designed
for very different user types. More on this as we get into the
get Program, Shutter-priority (Tv in Canon parlance), Aperture-priority
(Av), and Manual exposure modes plus a faux Automatic depth of
field mode; seven scene modes (Everything Auto, Portrait,
Sports, Night Portrait, and Flash Off); diopter adjustments for
a wealth of useful information in the viewfinder (though no frame
autofocus; 36-segment matrix, and centerweighted (Canon doesn't
specify weighting in the manual, which I find problematic for
users who like to understand and control their equipment) metering;
exposure compensation and three shot auto bracketing;
and depth of field preview.
the feature list of the Digital Rebel, you might wonder if Canon
left anything out. The big missing piece is true spot metering,
though I'd also point out that fine control over certain user-settable
features is also missing (you can't set ISO in 1/3 stop values,
for instance). Users of the Canon 10D will immediately notice
a few "cripplings" of features, such as autofocus control in
P, S, A, and M exposure modes, no custom settings, no mirror
lock-up, and a host of other small things.
issue of significance to a few users might be the 1.6x angle
of view change versus the D70's 1.5x. Since Canon
isn't yet producing a line of lenses designed for the APS-sized
sensors (other than the 18-55mm that comes with the Digital Rebel
kit), true wide angle aficionados will find themselves having
to look at third-party solutions such as Sigma's 12-24mm. But note
that even that small angle of view difference between the two
makes a 12mm lens function like a 19.2mm lens on a Digital Rebel
like an 18mm lens on D70. That translates into about four degrees
wider for the Nikon.
feature set of the Digital Rebel is quite decent
for its price point, though I believe it does suffer somewhat in
direct comparison to the D70 specifications.
should probably preface this section with a caveat. As a long-time
Nikon shooter--I used my first Nikon SLR as a teenager in the
mid-sixties--I can pretty much pick up any Nikon body and start
and Nikon use somewhat different approaches for user controls,
and switching from one system to the other definitely takes adjustment.
Not having shot very much with Canon SLRs, I'm still adjusting,
I had to characterize Canon's and Nikon's control approaches,
here's what I'd say:
tends to have a more standardized interface approach: hold
down a button on a Nikon SLR and the Rear Command dial makes
the major setting for that button, the Front Command dial any
adjustment. Most frequently used controls (exposure compensation,
for example), are placed where you don't have to take your
eye from the viewfinder and have been relatively consistent
in position since the N90 came out in 1992 (some go further
back to the N8008). Overall, the Nikon is a very right-handed
design and relies very heavily on hand positioning vis-a-vis
has had more interface changes over the years than Nikon, but
most recently has become somewhat standardized. Where Nikon's
control dials are similar in size and feel and spin in the
horizontal plane, the Canon approach uses a small vertically
mounted wheel on
the top plate of the camera and a dial (not present on the
Digital Rebel) vertically on the back of the camera; some Nikon
converts have trouble adjusting to this. Canon
cameras also tend to use multiple button presses more than
both cases, you get used to certain hand positions and finger
movements, and it's tough to go quickly from the Nikon style
to the Canon style (or vice versa). Personally, I find
that I take my eye away from the viewfinder more often when using
a Canon body and my right hand position moves more while shooting
than it does when I'm using a Nikon body. Since I've used Nikon
bodies for so long, I find both of those things a bit uncomfortable,
and to date, I shoot more slowly and less confidently using the
Digital Rebel than I with, say, my Nikon D70. If the Digital
Rebel is your first and only camera, that's not a big consideration,
obviously. Still--and I know some 1D and 1Ds users are going
to write in to dispute this generalization--I'd characterize
the Canon shooting interfaces as slightly more cumbersome and
the Nikon ones, and the Digital Rebel versus the D70 is typical
of this dichotomy.
the hand, the Digital Rebel is small, light, and comfortable.
Even though the right grip is rather pronounced compared to the
rest of the diminutive body, it fits a small hand well, and
the slight contouring makes it easy to hold the camera with one
hand (not that I recommend shooting that way!).
of the control placements may make the camera feel
a bit uncomfortable to someone who has large hands or long fingers.
Two controls that you tend to use more often--the exposure lock
and autofocus point selector buttons--tend to force you to give
up some of your grip on the camera to operate (you end up gripping
the front of the camera mostly with the tips of your fingers
with no thumb support). This is something big handed folk will
find slightly more daunting than
smaller digits. I'd say the Digital Rebel is a body that
best fits smallish hands; at least
those folk won't feel contorted when using common controls.
dial on the left top plate is used to set the camera's exposure
mode (and the special scene modes). This dial is clearly labeled
and easy enough to use. The scene modes restrict what other things
you can set, but, like Nikon's scene modes, don't go far enough
for me to make them useful. For example, you can't
set bracketing, exposure
compensation, or any of the digital parameters
in these modes. None of them
really do anything particularly useful, in my opinion. The Automatic
Depth of Field mode, while intriguing in principal, turns out
to be rather limited in actual practice. The manual shows a group
portrait that has people lined up at different distances across
the frame, which is one of the few times this function will work
optimally. That's because the objects that the camera determine
as near and far have to be under one of the seven autofocus sensors,
which are primary oriented horizontally.
exposure mode can be over-ridden (Nikon calls this Flexible Program
for those of you trying to make direct comparisons). Unlike the
D70, where each dial turn gives you the next 1/3 stop alternative,
the Digital Rebel does a very strange thing: it gives you a third
of a stop alternative followed by a 2/3 stop alternative--every
other 1/3 stop possibility is missing! It's as if they do a 1/2
stop change and then round to the nearest third of a stop setting.
exposure mode is less direct than on Nikon bodies. The dial on
the top plate controls the shutter speed directly, but if you
want to change aperture, you also have to hold down a button
while turning that dial. With practice, this becomes second nature,
I suppose, but it's one of those subtle things in the Canon interface
that slow most people down slightly when shooting.
and White Balance settings can be quickly changed without going
to the menu system if nothing is being displayed on the color
LCD. Press the appropriate button, twirl the dial on the top
plate to get to the value you want (shown on the second LCD on
back), then press the button again.
histogram display is sub-optimal, in my opinion. Like the one on
the Fujifilm S2 Pro, it's too small and sometimes difficult to distinguish
what's happening at the highlight extreme, which is exactly where
we want to see the most information. The D70 has Nikon's usual large,
easily visible histogram--you only have to see the two side by side
to see how inferior the Digital Rebel's histogram is.
white balance is obtained by taking a regular photo of a centered,
neutral object, then going back and pointing the camera at that
photo. Not only does this (temporarily) waste storage space,
but it makes for a slightly slower than usual custom setting
procedure (not that Nikon has always done right by this--the
D100's custom white balance procedure is a bit labyrinthine;
the D70 is better in this respect, and supports a better and
measuring method [if you remember to press the button twice]
plus the same
"set from photograph" option the Digital Rebel does).
image controls such as contrast, sharpness, saturation, and
color tone are somewhat buried in the menu system under something
called Parameters. The first things on the Parameters menu refer
to color space controls, and it's only by defining a "set" do
you get to the individual controls. The good news is that you
can define your own sets for multiple image controls; the bad
news is that these are the last items on the last menu on the
first tab (which means lots of button presses to get to them).
Worse news is that image controls can't be set if you choose
another color space, such as Adobe RGB. Note further that the
default set of parameters are actually a bit aggressive, specifying
a slight bump in sharpness, contrast, and saturation as the default.
the Digital Rebel handles like a camera that you can't quite get
full control over. That's fine if you're an all-automatic shooter,
but for someone who wants specific, clear control over settings
that effect exposure and image parameters, the D70 is a much better
choice, as you can control virtually everything on the
motor drive and the self timer are available via a separate
button on the top plate, which is simpler than on most Nikon
bodies, which require a two-step process, but bracketing, Image
Quality, Image Size, and a few other functions are only accessible
through the menu system on the Digital Rebel. The menu system
itself is simple enough for the most part, though I fail to see
necessary (you can move between tabs without it, and it really
seems that directional controls ought to all be assigned to the
direction pad, as Nikon does). [Several Canon users have written to tell me that it is useful for browsing through images already on the card, as it jumps you 10 images at a time. I can't remember the last time I wanted to do that on a DSLR, and I can think of more direct ways of handling moving more quickly through image reviews if that's what the button is trying to fix.] All in all, the interface has
more buttons than it actually needs (to see why, just look at
the Kodak or Fujifilm menu interfaces). Given the target market
of this camera, I see several opportunities for simplifying and
making the controls more consistent. I've seen far worse, though,
and what Canon has produced is easily learned and understood.
Digital Rebel takes two types of lenses: the traditional EF mount
lenses, and new EF-S mount lenses. The 18-55mm lens that comes
as part of the US$999 kit is one of the latter, and mounts with
a twist in the opposite direction than that of the original mount,
which will take some getting used to if you're moving back and
between lens types. Canon did it this way apparently because
the EF-S lenses stick a bit further back into the camera than
do EF lenses, and Canon didn't want people sticking EF-S lenses
onto cameras that don't support them, as the rear elements might
interfere with the action of the mirror.
big handling gripe I have with the Digital Rebel is that it isn't
always immediately responsive. The Nikon DSLRs all are instant-on,
instant-wake, and thus instant-shoot. Not so the Digital Rebel.
There's a three second delay between the time you turn the camera
on and the first shot is taken. That's tolerable, as the battery
is good enough to leave the camera on for long periods. What's intolerable
to a Nikon DSLR user is the delay for the camera to wake up from
sleep. If you leave the camera on but don't take a picture for awhile,
you get that same three-second delay if you suddenly press the shutter
release. For spontaneous picture shooting, this is very poor behavior.
Indeed, if the cameras were equal in every other way, this alone
would be enough to make me suggest the Nikon D70 over the Digital
Rebel. Some have suggested that you use the settings to increase the amount of time the Digital Rebel is active (you can set it to 1 minute up to 30 minutes), but this seems to consume battery power somewhat faster, which isn't a great tradeoff.
handling is quite decent for the all-automatic shooter, but compromised
in several meaningful ways for someone who wants to take complete
Digital Rebel matrix meter is pretty good at tough scenes, though
I find it has a tendency to blow out highlight detail more than
the Nikon matrix meters do. That
find any exposures in my initial test shots that I was uncomfortable
with. And you can always dial in exposure compensation or turn
the exposure bracketing if you're really worried.
aware that metering changes when you press the exposure lock
button to partial area metering (about 9% of the total image
area). If you don't catch this distinction, you're going to have
getting the exposure you want. (I also don't like the fact that
the only way you can cancel exposure lock is to wait for the
meter to time out or press the focus point selection button;
why wouldn't a second press of the exposure lock button unlock
a locked exposure?)
exposure users should note that you get only two stops of metering
information on each side of 0. Also note that you don't get
matrix metering in manual exposure mode. Instead, you get an unspecified
(in the manual, at least) centerweighted system.
are issues that will catch some users unawares with regards
to exposure. If you perform a
focus with a half shutter press and then recompose, the metering
will be locked to the point where you did the focus! This isn't
what I want the camera to do, and there doesn't seem to be any
simple way to overcome this problem. (The hard way is meter on
your composition, press the exposure lock, reorient and focus
by doing the half-press, recompose and shoot. Again, a subtle
slowing down of the shooting process as compared to the Nikon
more subtle issue is that the matrix metering changes its emphasis
from the selected autofocus point to the central autofocus
point if you switch to manual focus. As usual for camera manufacturers,
these things aren't well documented in the 300D manual, nor
there any indication on the camera that something is changing
in the metering (and you have no way of knowing whether you're
in matrix, centerweighted, or partial metering except by remembering
that you changed a setting that triggered it).
ambient metering performance seems accurate and consistent,
but a little hotter than I'm used to with Nikon equipment (there's
meter and test head to head, unfortunately). I found that I
was consistently wanting to set a small amount of underexposure
compensation with the Digital Rebel. (Confession: having used
Nikon DSLRs for so long, I'm very sensitive to highlight detail.
Indeed, when used well, that's one of the key attributes of
the Nikon and Fujifilm DSLRs: they can capture extraordinarily
subtle highlight detail.)
exposures are another story, however. It's unclear to me exactly
why, but flash exposures on the Digital Rebel can be quite
inconsistent, with a tendency towards being too bright (blowing
out highlights). Moreover, you can't control the flash exposure
vis-a-vis the ambient exposure, which is something that I believe
is absolutely necessary for accurate and reliable flash use.
The best you can do is to use the "flash lock" feature,
which actually consists of pre-firing the flash and then the
locking on the value it determined. But even that proved to
be somewhat inconsistent in use, and had a tendency towards
blowing out highlights. As an expert on flash use, I think
overstating anything to say that I find the Digital Rebel's
flash abilities overly restrictive and unreliable. Let me put
that another way: if you're going to get heavy into flash use,
get the Nikon D70 instead of the Digital Rebel. Assuming you
learn the idiosyncrasies of Nikon's
system, something I'll admit takes me several hundred pages
to describe, you'll end up with much more control over flash.
heard all kinds of stories about how Canon's autofocus performance
on the low-end bodies wasn't as good as Nikon's, I was prepared
to be appalled. In practice, however, I didn't find any substantive
differences that would limit my use of it. True, in very low
light without any autofocus assist help, the Canon doesn't tend
to lock where the Nikon CAM900 cameras like the D70 will at least
lock in the central AF point. But even the minimal light in my
at night (lit by a sole 100-watt halogen reflected off the ceiling)
is enough to get fast and accurate autofocus. At ISO 100, f/5.6
and 1 second for a proper exposure, the autofocus system still
to function just fine; if you're trying to autofocus in lighting
worse than that, well, a low-end DSLR may not be what you should
be buying--that's just too much to expect for a sub-US$1000 camera.
is a little tough to get used to is the manner in which the Digital
Rebel picks the focus point to use. As I understand it, the camera
first tries to figure out what the subject might be by exposure
(a foreground subject is distinguishable from a background in
most cases because the lighting for the two is different). This
is easy to see with a bright subject and dark background--pan
so that the subject moves to other sensors and you'll see that
the camera does indeed keep finding the bright subject. When
tonal values are close or the camera thinks it might see multiple
subjects, you'll see multiple sensors light up; the one that
will be used will be the one on the centerline or above that
has the closest focus distance (e.g., if the bottom sensor has
the closest distance, it wouldn't be used). In theory, if you
don't like what the camera picked for autofocus you can lift
your finger and when you half press the shutter release again
the camera will pick a different sensor to use. In practice,
I found the Digital Rebel more often than not picks the same
spot, though I did find cases where it operated as Canon suggests.
life is excellent, about as good as the Nikon D100, which has
the best battery life of any digital SLR I've tested to date
usage of the D70 indicates it is at least as good). The Digital
Rebel's battery is lower voltage and lower milliamp hour rated
the D70's, but the Digital Rebel also seems to have a sensor and
digital processing side that consumes less power, so it's almost
rates the battery at about 600 images at room temperature when
no flash is used, and I can't find fault with that. Your overall
battery life is going to be mostly determined by how much you
use the color LCD more so than how many pictures you take, anyway.
The Digital Rebel comes set to fairly aggressive color LCD time
(2 second review), and when left at that, you can pretty much
shoot all day with a single battery. If you review pictures more
or use the internal flash a lot, then carry a second charged
battery with you. Needing more than two charged batteries for
a day's worth of shooting isn't something I can imagine any Digital
Rebel user encountering.
piece of bad news performance-wise is the write speed to CompactFlash
of the Digital Rebel. To put it bluntly, this camera writes slower
Nikon DSLR I've ever tested save the original D1, which was widely
criticized for its slowness. Coupled with the 4 frame buffer
and the fact that image review
functions don't function until the buffer is completely emptied
to the card, this has a serious impact on those that shoot raw
files with the Digital Rebel. On the fastest card I have available,
it took 18 seconds before a full buffer of raw files flushed
displaying the Busy message. You'll want the fastest card you
can find if you shoot raw files, and even JPEG users might want
to consider that, too.
not even a close contest with a D70. Use a state-of-the-art card
in the D70 and you'll rattle off JPEGs continuously until the card
fills. Meanwhile, your Digital Rebel will have fallen way behind
as it stutters through filling and emptying the buffer.
contrast, and some types of detail are strong points in the
images a Digital Rebel's produces. Overall, the Digital Rebel
with more contrast than I'm used to with the Nikon DSLRs. For
casual shooters, this is probably fine, as contrast is something
our eyes are very keyed into. However, note that it is usually
easier to add contrast (as I often have to do in my Nikon DSLR
images) than it is to remove it (as I've wanted to with several
Digital Rebel images I've made). For the target audience for
the camera, though, Canon has made the right decision here.
is generally quite good, though I sometimes find a very slight green
shift in mid-tone neutrals (Nikon bodies tend towards a slight magenta
shift, if they have one). Greens overall tend to be "brighter"
and snappier than the D70. Reds and oranges are also very well handled,
though purples seem dark and slightly off to me. Raw images seem
to have a slightly better color fidelity, while JPEG images seem
to have a slight color emphasis (boosting certain colors for punch
or contrast). White balance plays a role in color rendering, and
here I'd have to say: shoot with manual (custom) white balance in
any lighting other than daylight. Unfortunately, as noted above,
doing that takes extra steps it shouldn't, which slows you down.
Still, if you take the time, you'll get very good color that, with
the slight increase in contrast at the default settings, provides
photos with a lot of color "punch."
6mp cameras go, the Digital Rebel stands right with the pack
terms of detail handling, with a small caveat. Since noise and
artifacting are well controlled (at least at the lower ISO values,
the Digital Rebel produces images with detail that'll stand up
against the other 6mp cameras, including it's higher-priced
10D. Canon's anti-aliasing is less aggressive than Nikon's is on
the D100 (though slightly more aggressive than the D70), which
for the 6mp to act like 6mp and is more than enough for quality
8 x 10" prints (and larger with good shooting and post
processing discipline). One slightly weak point: when shooting
JPEGs, the camera
tends to mask highlight detail, probably due to the way the Digic
chip processes the data (that increased contrast comes from
What do I mean by that? Well, something bright towards the extreme
that is recorded--detail in white walls, lace in bride's dresses,
texture in snow, etc.--tends to lose a bit of detail when rendered
by the Digital Rebel JPEG as compared to a D70 JPEG. This is
a function of the JPEG processing, as Digital Rebel Raw images
run through a decent converter clearly have more highlight
them. But overall, there does seem to be a bit of detail smoothing
going on somewhere in the system--perhaps in the ADC pulling
off the chip--that isn't present in the Nikon DSLRs. As I said,
it's a small caveat. Some will actually prefer the smoothing
of the Digital Rebel, especially if you have to sharpen aggressively
for your inkjet output, while others won't.
it's reputation as a low noise sensor, the CMOS sensor in the
Rebel doesn't really do as good a job as you might think given
all the ecstatic raves you see in Canon Internet forums. Yes,
Rebel is low in noise at ISO 100. I wouldn't place it in a clear
category above or below the 10D, D70, or S2 Pro (other 6mp cameras)
at the base ISO, though. If you use the camera at the defaults,
the slightly higher than normal default sharpening will quickly
produce noise in the red channel as you ratchet up ISO values.
Even with sharpening turned down, the red channel noise seems
compared to other 6mp cameras at high ISO values. Indeed, there
seems to be a "clumping" aspect to the Digital Rebel noise I
don't find in the D70 (which tends to be more film grain like
in its randomness). So, no, the Digital Rebel isn't the last
word on low noise images (the
be, as I write this), and no, it's not "buttery smooth at
all ISO values" as at least one prominent person has touted.
not to say that it's noise handling is bad. There's little to
worry about with ISO 100 and 200, modest noise that would be
invisible in most prints at 400 and 800, and acceptable noise
at ISO 1600. Long exposure noise (dark current noise) isn't an
issue at all for most shooting, though if you're into astronomical
photography, be aware that the Digital Rebel's dark current noise
isn't repeatable--really long exposures will have different noise
patterns each time, though the noise is well under control.
Given the market the Digital Rebel is targeted at, I really doubt
handling. I'd quantify it overall as "very good."
everything about the image quality the Digital Rebel produces
is in the very good range or better. If I felt like I were a
little more in direct control of what the camera is doing, I'd
about that. But there's a functional interaction between your
ability to absolutely control exposure quickly and accurately
and the ultimate image quality you produce. Every now and then
your lack of full control produces a "close but no cigar" image.
One key difference between the Canon Digital Rebel and the Nikon
is that when the Digital Rebel misses an exposure, it's the camera's
D70 doesn't quite nail the image, it's your fault. For
casual shooters, the Digital Rebel is fine. For control-freaks,
the D70 is a better choice.
know I'll be blasted by emails from Canon devotees trying to
hammer me on statements like those in the last paragraph (and
this one, read on ;~). "My Digital Rebel takes perfect pictures,"
they'll write. Perhaps for them, it does, though I'd question
how critical they're being and whether they're producing snapshots
or photographs (there is a difference). As I teach in my
workshops, getting a great photograph requires
and discipline on the part of the photographer.
You don't just get things "about right." You must precisely and
fully control each and every element and parameter that impacts
the pixels (or grain) of your shot. The list of those things
is daunting to some, but it's the individual pursuit of them
distinguishes photographer A from photographer B.
not to say that the Digital Rebel can't take good pictures. As
I think I've outlined here, it's a very capable camera image-wise.
The crippled handling compromises what the camera (and thus
photographer) can produce, however, and in my mind this
is a serious flaw for anyone who intends to use the camera as
anything other than a high-quality, advanced point-and-shoot.
If you're using a Canon G5 or a Coolpix type camera and looking
for less shutter lag and better image quality, the Digital Rebel
may be all you need (but watch out for that 3-second startup
delay!). For me, however, Canon took too much control out of
Pardon my Latin, but loosely: Cam Populum would be
"a camera for the entire people," while ad Captandum
"in order to win over the masses," but implies that such actions
are intended solely to achieve popularity and not necessarily
in the best interests of the people.
Exactly what you'd expect for an inexpensive body; you'll
want to take precautions to keep this
from the elements. The color LCD on the back has no additional
protection, so is susceptible to scratching with rough
handling. But other than that it seems hardy enough.
The 1/200 flash sync speed can be problematic for some.
Canon aficionados will point out that the camera supports
High Speed flash
much light output to be useful over reasonable distances.
Plus, compared to the Nikon D70, the Digital Rebel's
have as much fine control over them.
Three seconds before the first shot. Three seconds to
wake up. Three seconds in which you'll miss many
Suited for Manual Labor. If
you shoot in manual exposure mode and like to have full,
quick control over every last camera setting, you'll be
frustrated by the Digital Rebel.
the Image Stupid.
Nice color, nice contrast, and very printable out-of-camera JPEGs
make this a snapshooters delight.
for the Buck! US$899 for a rather full-featured
DSLR is as good as it gets here in early 2004.
Add another US$100 for a reasonable, though not great,
lens and its an even better bargain for the first time