





Nikon Film SLR Lens Kit Recommendations
last update: 07/24/07
Digital SLR users should click here instead
Note: Some of the
lenses I recommend are no longer available new. If you're looking for a reputable
place that sells used Nikkors, try KEH.
Sharp
and Light Manual Focus Lens Kit
- 20mm f/4.
A legendary lens amongst those who know, and you really don't need a fast
f/stop for landscapes, do you? (If you're into candids, the 28mm f/2.8 is
probably a better choice. The 28mm f/2.8 E is an okay choice, but most samples
don't seem to be as good as the regular AI version.)
- 100mm f/2.8
E. Just because it came in a plastic barrel doesn't mean it can't create
sharp images.
These
underrated lenses share the 52mm filter size, and coupled together with an FM-10,
FE-10, FM2n, or FM3a, make for a super light kit that gives you two distinct,
useful focal lengths. This was my basic backpacking kit (with an FM2n body and
a small flash), although sometimes I substituted a 24mm f/2.8 if I thought I'd
be doing a lot of people photos. For macro work, I simply use extension tubes
on the 100mm.
You
could supplement this kit with any number of additional lenses, depending upon
your primary shooting interest. For landscapes and photojournalism, add a 24mm
f/2.8 or a 35mm f/2. For portraits or telephoto work, substitute a 75-150mm
f/3.5 E or add a 180mm f/2.8 if you don't mind the weight and extra filter size.
Top
of the Line Manual Focus Lens Kit
- 24mm f/2.
You won't find anything else at this focal length this fast, and it's sharp.
- 85mm f/1.4.
Some argue about whether the f/1.8 is sharper, but this one focuses closer,
which seals it for me.
- 135mm f/2.
The latest version has a defocus image control system that lets you play with
the characteristics of the out of focus area.
- 180mm
f/2.8 ED. One
of the best long telephotos for handholding.
- 300mm f/2
IF ED. It may be heavy, but you can't beat this telephoto for indoor sports
photography.
- 400mm f/3.5
IF ED. A forgotten gem. This superb telephoto actually weighs less than
the current 300mm f/2.8.
All
these lenses have wide apertures, which helps with focusing, since the viewfinder
image will be bright. They also have well-deserved reputations for sharpness
(though not necessarily at full aperture). Unfortunately, you�ll end up with
a range of filter sizes, be carrying a lot of weight, and have an empty bank
account if you decide to carry this kit. But you'll also have some of the best
Nikkors ever made and the ability to shoot under just about any lighting conditions.
Couple this kit with an F4 and you�re in Nikon MF heaven. (Some would argue
for the inclusion of the 35mm f/1.4 or the 50mm f/1.4, but I've never found
those focal lengths useful.)
Top
of the Line Autofocus Heavyweights
- 17-35mm f/2.8
AF-S. Sharp for a zoom, low distortion, close focus. You may wonder whether
a zoom can equal the prime lenses; in a word, almost. Indeed, at 18mm, this
lens is better than the 18mm Nikkor f/2.8. Only at the 35mm end does it begin
to be outshined by the primes. The older 20-35mm f/2.8 is a close second choice
to the 17-35mm, but some samples have color fringing at 20mm and it doesn't
focus as close as the newer lens. Also, it's no longer available new. A review
of the 20-35mm can be found here.
- 70-200mm
f/2.8G AF-S VR. Sharp, fast to focus, vibration reduction, and versatile.
With the TC-14e and TC-20e you might not even need a 300mm or 400mm lens (unless
you need fast glass).
- 300mm
f/2.8 AF-S.
Fast focus with remarkable sharpness.
- TC-14E and
TC-20E extenders.
This
kit is built to allow lenses to share the extenders and 77mm filters (except
for the 300mm f/2.8, which requires drop-in filters; if you don't need the extra
speed, the 300mm f/4 AF-S takes 77mm filters and
fits into this package perfectly). With these lenses, you've got some of Nikon's
best glass and can go from 17mm to 600mm with great sharpness, and only a gap
in the 35-80mm range, which many photographers avoid, anyway. When I'm not hiking,
this is what I like to carry with my F5, F100, or D1x, though I often substitute
the workhorse 300mm f/4. I also sometimes carry a 14mm
Sigma for fun.
Alternatively, perhaps the 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6 VR lens can replace both the 80-200mm
and the 300mm if you don't need fast apertures. Amazingly, this new lens is
about the same size and weight as the 80-200mm. The VR lens uses 77mm filters,
though it cannot use the E teleconverters. It's much slower in autofocus
than the AF-S lenses, and the slower maximum apertures make it difficult to
pull off shallow depth of field, especially at the wide end. Finally, the 80-400mm
VR is really only edge-to-edge sharp at f/8 and f/11; diffraction makes the
lens soft at smaller apertures, corner sharpness is a bit soft at wider apertures.
Lightweight
Utility Autofocus
- 20mm
f/2.8. An excellent lens, though you�ll rarely need the f/2.8.
- 24-85mm
f/3.5-4.5G AF-S. A controversial choice, but this is a very sharp
lens. Use the lens hood.
- 85mm f/1.8.
A great lens for aerials and candid portraits.
- 70-300mm
f/4-5.6 ED AF-S VR . More reach than the 70-210mm or variable aperture 80-200mm,
and arguably better at most focal lengths.
This
kit is destined for travel, as it takes you from 20mm to 300mm without a lot
of weight or bulk, provides flexibility with the zooms, sharpness with the fixed
focals, low-light capabilities with the 85mm. In a pinch (and
bright light!) you can leave the 85mm behind. This is my in-between kit, which
I use for supported long treks (usually with the F100 or D100 as the camera
body). You'll need larger filters with a step-up ring, though.
This
kit is destined for travel, as it takes you from 20mm to 300mm without a lot
of weight or bulk, and provides flexibility with the zooms.
Other
Lenses to Consider to Extend Your Kits
- 500mm f/4
AF-S. I like the 500mm better than the 400mm or 600mm, and this is a very
sharp lens, even with a teleconverter. I consider it the near-perfect birder's
lens (the perfect birder's lens would always be about 200mm longer than the
one you brought).
- 16mm f/2.8.
An unusual lens, this Nikkor produces what's known as a full-frame fisheye
effect--straight lines that don't run through the center horizontally or vertically
will exhibit pronounced barrel distortion. With some subjects, this lens produces
a great alternative perspective.
- 14mm f/2.8.
Better in almost every respect than the Sigma 14mm
I've been using, but a lot more expensive. You'll need to spend considerable
time perfecting your use of this lens, though, as it takes in such a wide
reach that getting foreground and background elements in balance takes a great
deal of consideration.
- 70-180mm
Micro-Nikkor. If you're into macro photography, it's well worth it
to check out this unusual lens. While the focal length range is a bit deceptive
at close ranges (lens extension changes effective focal length), you'll wonder
how you lived without it once you get used to the way it works. With an SB-29,
you'll be in macro heaven.
[Back to Nikon 35mm]